Jumping up at people is a highly social and usually dominant way for dogs to say “Hello.” Play-fighting by dominant types involves similar behaviour.

The socially bold dog that is isolated often jumps excitedly when a person enters his area.

Removal of the causative factors, such as excessive isolation, horseplay between owners and their dogs (or neighbours, friends, etc), or what appears to be genuine overexcitement, must be accompanied by some recognition by the dog of the leadership position of his owners.

The jumping dog that does not respond to traditional methods of physical aversion such as being pushed down with a firm ‘no’ of correction is usually the excitable and socially bold type.

Such a dog’s response may be even more tenacious (although usually good-natured)  bad behaviour. If simple command responses are taught on a nonphysical basis, the corrections are generally easily accomplished. Dogs that respond readily to Come, Sit and Stay commands are quick to recognise behaviour that displeases their leaders.

One method of stopping the jumping is to crouch down so the object of attention, the owner’s face, is where the pet need not jump to achieve its greeting. This requires physical stamina and patience in the case of extremely exuberant pets, but it yields excellent results quickly in mild cases.

A method that often works with highly reactive dogs is a quick, toward-the-dog movement, almost like a cha-cha dance step, followed by absolute stillness of the owner. The sudden movement toward the pet often stops its approach; the following stillness secures calmness. If a jump is still in the offing, a quick side step, followed by absolute stillness, is called for. This method takes more time than some others, but the cure is lasting once achieved.

Use of a distracting stimulus has proved effective when applied as the dog approaches with the intent of jumping. This may involve throwing a ball or some other unique stimulus. After a few such distractions, the dog will be conditioned not to jump up. If a ball has been thrown, a frantic search for the play object is a substitute behaviourism often welcomed by harassed owners or guests.

In all cases of correction, the dog must be praised with a soft-spoken “Good dog” and petted, if at all, in a slow and calming manner. This helps reinforce following behaviour and instills calmness to replace the previous excitement.

Another effective deterrent is to allow the dog to jump, then grab the forepaws and hold them until the dog start to pull them away. Then the paws are instantly released, the hands are put

behind.

1. Spot-on Treatments

While spot-on medications seem like they would only work on the spot they are applied to (in the same way a collar works), they are actually very effective at covering the animal’s entire body. The drops work by a process of translocation, by which the medication is spread over the body by way of the oil glands. They are not affected by bathing, swimming or rain and will kill and repel fleas for several weeks before reapplication. They may also work to interrupt the flea life cycle while it is in progress. Before choosing a particular spot-on product, read all labels carefully to be sure you are choosing the one most appropriate for your dog’s age and size.

2. Oral Medications

If you need help controlling a serious flea infestation, using oral medications along with spot-on treatments will help. Once a month flea control pills (in small tablet form) work to disrupt the life cycle of fleas, but do not kill adult fleas on contact. Some are made to be easy to administer, even for pets that are difficult to medicate, with flavor added to make them more like treats so they are accepted gladly — or at least easier to hide in your dog’s food. With the oral medication, you won’t have to be concerned about small children coming into contact with the dog immediately after administration, as you might with spot-on treatments.

3. Flea Shampoos

Bathing your dog with a special medicated shampoo that kills fleas and/or ticks on contact can be an inexpensive (though labor-intensive) method of protecting your dog during flea season, or year round. You will need to repeat the process more often, about every two weeks, as the effective ingredients in these shampoos won’t last as long as a spot-on or oral medication.

4. Flea Collars

Collars that repel and kill fleas are another option. Their effectiveness may depend on how invasive the fleas are in your dog’s environment, and the collar needs to make contact with your dog’s skin in order to transfer the chemicals onto the fur and skin. When adjusting the collar around your dog’s neck, make sure there is just enough room to fit two fingers under the collar. Cut off any excess length of collar to prevent your dog from chewing on it, and watch for signs of discomfort (e.g., excessive scratching) in case an allergic reaction to the collar occurs. Make sure you read labels carefully when choosing a collar to make sure it is size and age appropriate.  

5. Flea Dips

A dip is a concentrated chemical that needs to be diluted in water and applied to the animal’s fur with a sponge, or poured over the back. This is not like a shampoo bath, so you will not rinse your dog off after applying the dip product. These chemical products can be very potent, so labels need to be read carefully before use to make sure that it is appropriate for your dog age and health. Misuse can lead to toxic reactions, in both pets and in the people treating them, so they are generally only used for severe infestations, and only infrequently. Because of the chemical potency of dips, they should not be used on very young animals (under four months) or on pregnant or nursing animals. Ask your veterinarian for advice before treating puppies and pregnant or nursing pets.

How to give your dog an annual MOT!

Today we are taking our dogs through a car-like annual road test.

Like cars, the Dog MOT is the examination of a canine’s related systems components to ensure that they have not worn to an excessive level, which could otherwise render the canine unsafe for use on the park.

An annual health check is always a fun and worthwhile exercise but always remember, by using the services of your vet you are likely to save time and money and reduce the risk of any health problems for your dog creeping up on you.

TESTING THE BRAKES

This should involve the checking of the paws and claws for damage, wear and tear. A dog that continues to walk or run on an injured paw may cause unnecessary excess damage to itself.

TESTING THE DOORS

This involves the checking of the mouth and the teeth for any obvious problem. Teeth can become infected and the mouth should be checked for ulcers. Dogs suffer from toothache as well.  Take a closer look at your dog’s diet as this could help protect their teeth.

TESTING THE EMISSIONS

This involves checking the bowels, the faeces, the urine, the breath and the anal glands for any obvious problems. Worms are a common problem amongst dogs and can easily be resolved. Your dog’s diet yet again plays an important role in the emissions and an MOT may pick up some problems in the early stages.

TESTING THE FUEL SYSTEM

It is advisable that your dog’s diet is checked over. The diet may become a cure or indeed a problem for your dog. Your dog may be sensitive to something in its current diet and may need to undergo a ‘food allergy’ test. Putting the wrong kind of fuel into your dog is not desirable.

TESTING THE HORN

The bark and growl of a dog is often an early warning system to deter trouble and it can be used as a way of letting you know that something is wrong. It is necessary for a dog’s bark to be in perfect working order as this is its main means of communication.  Sore throat, toothache and even depression can cause the bark to malfunction.

TESTING THE LIGHTS & MIRRORS

This would involve the checking of the eyes for diseases such as Glaucoma, Conjunctivitis and Cataracts. These, if found early, can be treated and controlled. Unfortunately Glaucoma is one of the most frequent causes of blindness in adult dogs and cannot be cured, just controlled. Bleeding, Inflammation and Tumours can also occur in the eye. The ears of a dog also play a vital role in its communication with us. Ears can become infected in various ways (mite, bacterial and fungal infections are probably the most common). If a dog scratches too much it may cause a blood vessel to burst and could result in a blood blister. Ear disease is very hard to be prevented but regular check ups could limit any potential damage.

TESTING THE SUSPENSION & TYRES

Maintaining the balance and general wear and tear of your dog is very important. Healthy joints and legs go a long way to securing this. A cruciate ligament rupture can cause severe discomfort for a dog. It is more common in unfit or overweight dogs so the diet of your dog will be a major factor in this. If an unfit or overweight dog gets the necessary treatment early on, this could prevent any long lasting damage to it’s legs and joints such as arthritis.

TESTING THE STEERING

The brain, the device that controls everything, the way your dog reacts, moves, sees and walks etc. This would prove difficult to test but older dogs may be susceptible to ‘brain-ageing’. Slowing down this process can be achieved by a change in diet as some types of food have shown that they can improve learning ability in older dogs as well as improve alertness and enthusiasm. A sound mind will go a long way to reducing the chance of any other little problems cropping up. Brain tumours are uncommon in dogs younger than five years old but a neurological examination would be required. The neurological exam would involve the testing of the dog’s reflexes, examining the coordination, limb strength, head position, cranial nerve responses and general attitude.

TESTING THE VEHICLE STRUCTURE

The skin is the largest and most visible organ of the animal body. It protects the internal organs from a hostile environment. It provides form and covering and has numerous other roles in the body. It prevents moisture and essential chemicals leaving the body while allowing secretion of other materials. It has natural antibacterial and antifungal properties. The skin is an essential part of the body’s immune system monitoring and fighting infections.

As it is the ‘bodywork’ of the dog, disease is readily apparent. Hair loss, itching, dandruff, scabs and sores may all occur. Diseases of the skin may be related to other organ systems or each other and a complex interplay of signs and diseases ensues causing confusion for the owners and difficulties for vets.

It is therefore often necessary for many different diseases to be considered and ruled out before a final diagnosis to be made and correct treatment used. Vets are getting much better at dealing with skin diseases but sometimes they need the support of a specialist veterinary dermatologist. A WORD OF ADVICE: Skin disease treatments can be particularly expensive as prolonged and repetitive treatment is necessary. Pet Insurance can help take the financial sting out of this.

TESTING THE WINDSCREEN

The windscreen is a form of defence. It is important that your dog’s defence is kept up to date. Check that all the injections are up to date and check your Pet Insurance policy hasn’t lapsed. Treatments for dogs cost, some are pretty expensive. A few pounds a month can go a long way to saving you money in the long term. Fleas and worms can be kept to a minimum by regular treatment.

An annual dog MOT may pick up some concerns from your vet that you may be unaware of. As long as you maintain your dog’s health during the year, your dog MOT should be a simple formality but if you just rely on your vet to pick up these problems, it may be too late for treatment to be administered.

Although an annual check up is recommended there are things that you can do to maintain your dog during the course of the year. A few have already been mentioned but are worth re-iterating.

Regular grooming will promote well being ensuring that your dog is comfortable and free from the irritation of dead skin and hair build up. It is an essential part of their care.

Thorough grooming would remove all dead hair and any tangled bits.

Keeping the toenails neat and tidy will reduce the risk of long nails catching or indeed growing back into the pads.

The cleaning of the ears removes wax and debris from the ear canal, which reduces the risk of ear infections and canker.

Many of our dogs are plagued with the all too familiar dog breath. Regular teeth cleaning can go some way to reducing this. There are also treatments for the removal of tartar through routine descaling.

Bathing your dog in a hypoallergenic shampoo can have various effects. There are different types of shampoo available on the market to alleviate certain things. Shampoos can relieve sore and itchy skin, make white coats bright and can promote coat growth producing a fabulous shine. There are also shampoos to help repel insect infestation.

Scissors and clippers can be used to style and trim your dog to a desired look. A trim could suit both you and your dog’s lifestyle.

If you are prepared to invest a little time, money and effort into the well being of your dog this could substantially reduce the long-term costs of any treatments and could improve the long-term fitness and longevity of your dog.

The Dog MOT is not compulsory, but an annual check up would surely benefit you and your dog. It is law for your car, but do you love your car more than your dog? Some may do, but the majority of us love our dog more. I certainly would want to know that I am improving the well-being, health and happiness of my dog!

What Is The Easiest Way To Bath Your Dog?

Labrador training has been taught by many different schools of thought.  Teaching your Lab new tricks and handling obedience training takes both dedication and patience.  It also takes a sense of skill and personal awareness of not only your dog’s actions, but your own body language and training practices as well. 

Below are a few tips that any Lab owner can utilise when handling their pets:

1. Signals should be given to your Labs with one hand and arm only. In the earliest stages you may exaggerate the signals to gain the dog’s attention, but in the final analysis all signals must be given smoothly and swiftly without any excess body motion. The size of your Lab is not a significant factor here, for you can train any dog to pay attention, and if he is paying attention to you he will see your signals. 

The people who would disagree with this theory are those who have yet to learn how to make their dogs pay attention to them. You will have to watch yourself very carefully to avoid giving unintentional body signals to your dog. It is natural for a beginner to nod his head, lean forward, or move his hands when he calls his Lab. He is so intent in watching his dog that he is unaware of his own actions. Have someone watch you so he can tell you when he notices you doing this.

2. Be consistent - never scold your Lab for a misdemeanor one day and praise him the next for the same act. You cannot expect your dog to understand an exercise if you keep changing your training methods each time you try it. Labradors learn the basic work by repetition, and the entire training program should proceed smoothly and consistently. For instance, the techniques that you will use in puppy training will be repeated in advanced exercises when your Lab gets older, and your handling will be just the same.

3. You should study your Lab so you can foresee his reaction to any situation. You should become attuned to your dog’s sensitivities. If you have a gentle, quiet Lab, do not antagonize him by rough treatment. He will become very alert and responsive if you train him in a calm and gentle manner with consideration for his feelings. Aggressive or overly playful dogs need a more forceful approach. 

Sniff ‘n’ Seek

Add an element of problem solving to normal fetching games by hiding a toy or treat either in the open outdoors or at home in the garden. Two people are needed if playing in the fields, one to hold the dog whilst the other hides. Choose the hiding spot carefully so that your dog doesn’t injure themselves whilst searching. Equipment needed: Dog’s favourite toy/treat and hiding place.

Frisbee

Teaching your dog to catch and fetch a flying disc is very enjoyable and inexpensive. Simply stand in one spot of an open field or park and watch while your dog exercises every muscle in their body whilst having fun. A little encouragement might be needed to begin with such as racing your dog to the Frisbee. Equipment needed: Fling-a-Ring or Fantasy Flyer.

Fun In The Water

Swimming is an excellent form of exercise for everyone including our dogs. Incorporate swimming with fetching items such as balls and toys out of the water to keep it interesting for your dog. Always keep an avid eye on them throughout. Equipment needed: Water-proof dog toys (Kong Float, Disc-o-Dog, Crufts Soft Football, Air Kong Fetch Stick) and water (paddling pool of at least a foot deep dependent on size of dog or outdoor streams, ponds and lakes).

Cross-Training

Running is excellent for the cardiovascular system of both human and dog. Begin with a slow walk, then increase the pace to a jog, finally to a sprint and then back down to a slow walk. By doing this, your dog gets the best of both, a workout for his heart and social time with a sniff on the slow walk. Equipment needed: Running trainers, a bag for drinking bowl, water and poop-a-scoops plus usual dog walking gear (collar/harness and lead).

Agility Course

An agility course is a test for both you and your dog. It keeps the dog’s senses sharp and the brain occupied as he tries to master each part. A little encouragement and patience might be needed to begin with as your dog gets comfortable with the equipment. Equipment needed: Agility starter kit

Yoga (Doga)

Yoga for canines is the latest American import to hit the UK. It combines the human version with dogs and is proven to calm even the most unruly of dogs Canine Yoga involves a variety of stretches and massages in a variety of different positions. Equipment needed: Doga, Yoga for Dogs Book (written by William Berloni and published by Chronicle Books.) Pet Pavilion in London also run classes.

Hiking

If you live in a particularly hilly area then take your dog for a more challenging walk and the new area to explore will leave them entertained. This can also be done in a forest where fallen tree trunks can be used to jump and balance on. Equipment needed: Running trainers, a bag for drinking bowl, water and poop-a-scoops plus usual dog walking gear (collar/harness and lead).

Bubble Buddy Fun

This fun and easy to use machine offers a different way to have fun with your dog. It encourages interaction as they try to chase and catch the scented bubbles around the garden. Equipment: Bubble Buddy – comes in Bacon and BBQ chicken flavours

Treatball Maze

If your dog is an avid fan of treatballs then liven it up with a maze set in your back garden. These can be set to as difficult or easy as you want and the fun can last for hours as long as the treats do! Equipment needed: Treatball, treats and maze boundaries (bricks, wood or weighted boxes for example.)

K9 Mini-Olympics

A true test of your dogs’ agility, power, tricks, brain and endurance. The K9 Mini-Olympics combines some of the activities already mentioned in this article and a few new ones. The Olympics can be played against other teams of friends and family together with their dogs. The different stages include: Sprint Fetch (fetching a ball thrown with a Chuck It! or a Ball-Stomper machine as quick as possible), Tricks (performing a variety of tricks including shaking paws and roll-over), Sniff ‘n’ Seek, Agility and finally the relay race (set out the course as in diagram and time how long it takes the teams to complete.) The team with the most point’s after all five rounds are the winners.

As the dog evolved in the ancient world, life was hard on dogs. Dogs had to compete with other dogs and larger predators for their meals. If other predators found the dog’s food, the dog could lose their food, especially if the rival was larger than the dog. The dog had to develop a means to keep the food that it had caught and to have food around during scarce times.

For these reasons, dogs learned to bury their food, including bones. Predators naturally have a heightened sense of smell. This meant that early dogs had to hide their food from the noses of other predators, including other dogs. As a result, dogs buried their food after having a fast meal themselves. Later on, the dog could dig their food up and eat again.

Dogs also bury their food when they have a surplus of food. This insures that there is some food when the dog needs it during leaner times. Burying food to hide it from other predators and to keep for when there is a food shortage still occurs among dogs in the wild.

The food that is buried will stay at a cooler temperature than that which sits in the sun. The buried food is also less of a target for flies and insects, which would eat it. Burying food is practical for the dog.

Since your dog’s instinct to bury things is present and even very strong in some dogs, your pet may collect and bury more than just bones and food Dogs are also known to bury toys and their master’s items, whether this is in anticipation of hard times when all their toys are gone or the toy is so great that it must be hidden from other dogs is unknown.

Your dog will want to bury its bone or food in a secluded place, preferably near its den or your home. You can give and train your dog to use its own special place where it can bury food and bones, much like a child is given a sandbox in which to dig.

Even though a buried bone in the garden can make your unhappy, there is little that you can do to remove the digging instinct from your dog. It is normal for a dog to dig. Your dog’s tendency to bury items is a part of its instinct for self preservation.

, The word ‘walk’ is usually all it takes to trigger much tail-wagging and excited yelping, but not for one black labrador from Aberdeenshire.